Betal’s Sacred Journey: The Taka Procession of Poinguinim

Across rivers and villages in South Goa, an ancient triennial procession keeps alive the powerful bond between a community and its guardian deity.

Every three years, the quiet village of Poinguinim in South Goa’s Canacona taluka awakens to an extraordinary spectacle of faith and tradition. Drums echo through the countryside, sacred flags rise above the crowd, and hundreds of devotees move in reverent anticipation. At the heart of it all is the Taka Procession—locally known as Takyachi Zatra—a centuries-old ritual that binds myth, devotion, and community into one vibrant expression of living heritage.

More than a festival, the Taka Procession is a powerful reaffirmation of the bond between the villagers and their fierce yet protective deity, Shri Betal.

A Pact Forged in Legend

Local lore traces the origins of the celebration back to the 13th century. It is said that Shri Betal, having conquered twelve kingdoms, arrived in the region that is now Poinguinim. Faced with the deity’s immense power, the villagers sought peace and prosperity by making a solemn promise—to honour him with a grand celebration every three years.

From this pledge emerged the Gadyanchi Jatra, a tradition that continues to shape the cultural and spiritual identity of the village.

Poinguinim itself is believed to derive its name from Panchyagram, meaning “five villages.” Each of these settlements is devoted to a different deity—Parshuram, Purushottam, Durgadevi, Adipurush, and Vetal—together forming the sacred landscape of the region.

A Festival Spanning Three Years

Unlike most festivals that unfold over a few days, this tradition follows a unique three-year ritual cycle.

The first year begins with Jevnni, a communal feast where villagers gather in fellowship, strengthening social bonds and preparing spiritually for the events ahead.

The second year brings the most dramatic moment—the Taka Procession itself. The Taka is a sacred cloth bearing verses praising Shri Betal. The inscription, believed to date to the Saka year 1745, is embroidered in an early form of Marathi associated with the Yadav–Bahamani era, making it both a religious relic and a historical artefact.

During the procession, the Taka is carried by a devotee believed to be in a trance, possessed by the spirit of Betal. What follows is a remarkable spiritual journey across several villages.

The procession begins at the Navdurga Temple in Aarva and winds its way through Karpanas, Galiem, Sadolshe, Kolsar, Chandanaped, Loliem, and Khargal before returning to the Vetal Temple in Poinguinim.

One of the most dramatic moments occurs at Chandanaped, where devotees witness the ceremonial crossing of the Galgibaga River. The crossing, watched by large crowds gathered along the banks, symbolises purification, renewal, and the continuation of the sacred journey.

The third year culminates in the grand Gadyaanchi Jatra, a vibrant fair marked by rituals, folk performances, offerings, and large gatherings of devotees who come to honour Shri Betal.

The Fierce Guardian

Across Goa, Betal—also known as Vetal—is revered as a powerful folk deity, particularly among agrarian and fishing communities. Associated with tantric traditions, he is believed to command spirits and supernatural forces.

His iconography reflects this formidable power. Betal is often depicted in a fierce form: naked, with serpents as ornaments, a garland of human heads around his neck, a dagger in one hand and a bowl in the other. Offerings made to appease him traditionally include fowls, goats, and liquor, and in earlier times even buffalo sacrifices were performed in some villages.

Yet, despite this fearsome imagery, Betal is widely regarded as a benevolent protector. Devotees visit his temple seeking blessings, protection, and the fulfilment of vows.

The Wisdom of Nagu Velip

Embedded within this tradition is the story of Nagu Velip, a respected elder remembered for his wisdom and diplomacy. According to folklore, he successfully mediated between the villagers and the powerful deity, persuading Betal to use his strength to protect the community rather than inspire fear.

This legendary pact established Betal as the guardian of the village—and laid the foundation for the triennial celebrations that continue to this day.

When the Procession Moves

The Taka Procession begins at the Vetal Temple in Velwada, accompanied by the rhythmic beat of traditional percussion instruments.

At the head of the procession walks a representative of Betal, followed by four devotees known as Gade. Dressed in traditional attire, they carry two Tarangas—ceremonial flags—and two Satryos, sacred insignias representing the deity.

As the procession passes through neighbouring villages, it symbolically extends an invitation for the coming year’s Gadyanchi Jatra, spreading blessings and strengthening ties between communities.

A Celebration Beyond Religion

Over the centuries, the Taka Procession has evolved into far more than a religious ritual. It has become a celebration of shared heritage and collective identity.

People from different faiths and communities gather along the route, joining in music, dance, and devotion. The atmosphere is festive yet reverent, blending folklore, spirituality, and tradition in a way that is uniquely Goan.

A Window into Goa’s Living Traditions

In a state better known to the outside world for its beaches and nightlife, festivals like the Taka Procession reveal a deeper cultural landscape—one where ancient beliefs, oral histories, and community bonds remain vibrantly alive.

For visitors fortunate enough to witness it, the Taka Procession of Poinguinim offers something rare: a glimpse into Goa’s spiritual soul, where legend walks beside history and the rhythms of tradition continue to guide the life of a village.

And every three years, when the sacred cloth is lifted once more and the drums begin to echo across the fields, Poinguinim remembers the promise that has bound its people and their guardian deity for centuries.

Photos by Lynn Barreto Miranda / lynn.barretomiranda.com

Photos are of the Taka Procession held on 20th March 2016 at Poinguinim.