Cuncolim’s Sotreo: Retracing the Historic Journey of a Goddess

 

 

As the first light of dawn spreads across the lush fields of South Goa, the quiet village of Cuncolim begins to stir. Soon the air fills with drums, chants, and bursts of vermilion powder. It is the day of Sotreo—one of Goa’s most evocative temple festivals—when history, faith, and memory come together in a vibrant procession of umbrellas.

Every year on Panchami day in the month of Phalguna, thousands of devotees gather to witness and participate in this unique celebration dedicated to Shree Shantadurga Kunkalikarin. The procession begins at the temple in nearby Fatorpa and slowly makes its way to Cuncolim, retracing a journey that dates back several centuries.

At the heart of the procession is the palki (palanquin) carrying the sacred image of the Goddess. But what truly captures the eye—and gives the festival its name—are the twelve ceremonial umbrellas, known locally as sotreo. Mounted on poles of wood or metal and draped in silk, each umbrella represents one of the twelve vangodds (clans) of the Cuncolim region. Among them, a single red umbrella stands out, symbolising a distinct lineage.

Young men carry these umbrellas high above the crowd, leaping and dancing with exuberant energy as the procession advances. Their bodies are smeared with bright red powder, and as handfuls of the vermilion are flung into the air, the route becomes a swirling haze of colour and devotion.

Accompanied by traditional percussion and folk music, the procession winds through the village vaddos of Molanguinim, Biunsa, Voddy, Tolliebhatt, Markutt and Demani, following the historic route once taken by villagers fleeing religious persecution.

Centuries ago, during the Portuguese colonial period, the original temple of Shree Shantadurga in Cuncolim was destroyed. Devotees secretly carried the idol to safety in Fatorpa, where a new temple was eventually established.

Sotreo symbolically recreates that journey. For one day each year, the Goddess returns to her original home, reminding the community of its resilience and the lengths to which their ancestors went to protect their faith.

Today, what began as an act of survival has transformed into a powerful celebration of identity. Under the fluttering umbrellas and clouds of vermilion, the people of Cuncolim continue to honour both their Goddess and their history—ensuring that the memory of that long journey is never forgotten.

 

Photos by Lynn Barreto Miranda / lynn.barretomiranda.com

Clicked on 17th March 2017.

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