Ghode Modni: Echoes of Valour and Tradition in Goa’s Heartland

 

In the heart of Goa’s northern talukas—Pernem, Bicholim, and Sattari—thrives a folk tradition steeped in valour, history, and community spirit. Known as Ghode Modni, this evocative dance form pays tribute to the Maratha rulers and warriors of the past. According to legend, these warriors rode out to battle during Dussehra (an autumn festival) and returned victorious with the arrival of Holi, heralding the onset of spring.

A visual symphony of sound, movement, and colour, Ghode Modni is more than a dance. It is an act of remembrance, a celebration of triumph, and a living narrative passed down through generations.

 

A Dance of Warriors

The name Ghode Modni—literally translating to “horse sway” or “horse dance”—captures the very essence of this dramatic performance. Dancers wear colourful Rajput-style costumes and the traditional turban of a Rajput chieftain, known as the Peshwai pagri. Around their waists, they tie wooden horse effigies adorned with vibrant fabrics and floral decorations.

Sword in hand, the dancers mimic mounted warriors, marching in synchrony to the thunderous rhythm of traditional drums like the dhol and tasha, along with the clashing of cymbals. Barefoot and wearing ghungaroos (anklets with bells), their steps resonate powerfully with every beat. Their slow, deliberate movements mirror the rhythmic sway of horsemen in battle—evoking scenes of ancient warfare in motion.

The performance reaches its peak during Shigmo, Goa’s spring harvest festival, when it becomes the highlight of village processions. As the festive crowd gathers, the air reverberates with music and energy. The dancers begin their parade—each step echoing the strength and bravery of a bygone era.

 

Sacred Rituals and Community Celebration

In villages like Thane-Dongurli in Sattari, Ghode Modni transcends performance—it becomes a sacred tradition. Every alternate year, fourteen horse dancers from villages such as Rive, Golauli, Charavane, and Hivre-Budruk converge at Mundalgiryche Mol’, a sacred grove dedicated to the folk deities Kolgiro and Mundalgiro. These deities are revered as protectors and symbols of warrior spirit, and the dance is performed as an offering of gratitude and homage.

Traditionally, members of the warrior communities carry out the ritual. Each dancer also bears a wooden mask, treated as a sacred object—lifted only at the moment of performance. In earlier times, a white cloth was waved behind the dancers—a practice now discontinued, though its original meaning remains a mystery.

 

A Dance with Many Meanings

While Ghode Modni commemorates military victories—particularly over Portuguese colonial rule—it holds varied meanings for the communities who perform it. In some places, it is seen as a protective rite. Folklore speaks of thieves fleeing villages where Ghode Modni was performed, convinced that the warrior spirit still lived on.

Elsewhere, the dance takes on a spiritual role—as a ritual of passage, a prayer for prosperity, or a symbolic journey of resistance. Dancers march toward village temples, enacting battles not only against foreign oppressors but also against forces that threatened their land and identity.

 

Other Folk Rhythms in the Procession

Ghode Modni often shares the stage with a vibrant medley of other Goan folk dances during festivals. From the energetic Romtamel and Hanpet, to the graceful steps of Fugdi, Gopha, and the Imap dance, these performances collectively weave a rich tapestry of Goan heritage—blending rhythm, storytelling, and cultural memory.

 

Preserving a Living Tradition

Today, dedicated efforts are underway to preserve and promote Ghode Modni as a vital part of Goa’s intangible cultural heritage. Cultural groups, village elders, and youth volunteers work together year after year to train new dancers, maintain traditional costumes and props, and uphold the rituals with authenticity and reverence.

In an era of rapid change, Ghode Modni endures—a powerful testament to a time when stories were told not just in words, but through movement, music, and collective spirit. It is an invitation to remember, to celebrate, and above all, to honour the resilience that still rides proudly through Goa’s villages.

As the beats of the dhol-tashe echo through the hills and the “horses” sway in their colourful splendour, one truth becomes clear: Ghode Modni is not merely a dance—it is Goa’s living history, galloping forward one rhythmic step at a time.

 

 

Photos by Lynn Barreto Miranda / lynn.barretomiranda.com

Photos are of the Ghode Modni held on 22nd March 2022 at Thane-Dongurli in Sattari.